Hello, everyone so today’s film and guess we could call it a continuation from when I left off with our previous film about how to lacquer. Well, I was lacquering a piece of furniture which that I purchased some time ago. I am aware that just the other day that there was a royal wedding here in England, but just to clarify, I wasn’t actually getting married in today’s film I’m going to be talking about rubbing out lacquer or rubbing down lacquer for a polished finish.
Now I’m not going to be going into the polish aspect today. I shall be speaking about the polish aspect at another point in another film, because I want to share as many tips, techniques and recommendations as I possibly can on each subject and each part of the process went achieving a very high gloss, very shiny, almost glass. Like finish with lacquer on furniture, now, of course, there are different techniques for achieving a polished finish on many different things, whether it be stone or concrete or wood or whatever stone, of course, can be polished down and rubbed down, whereas with biological matter like wood, you Must combine a polish or a compound to it to achieve that very high gloss finish whether it be an oil based formulation or an acrylic formulation? It almost creates a barrier on the wood, a barrier of oil or of lacquer of polish or varnish or whatever, but then can be polished down. Of course, lacquer and many different types of varnish provide a very high glossy mirror-like finish regardless. However, to achieve the flawless finish, one must rub it down and use many layers so that you create a really seamless layer on the surface, because it is imperfections within a surface. Any ridges or dips in your surface can be visible within a glass like finish. Robbing out basically means sanding down with a very fine grit sandpaper. So the grit is very, very soft. It’s almost as if you were to take a nail file, the nail files used to shape and sharpen the nail do tend to be quite abrasive and the grit is quite unrefined. It’s very gritty, usually if you are to go into a store and buy any nail file, they will have the file just there’s number one which is the most coarse, and then there are a buffers and polishes. These will have less coarseness and some of them almost feel like a bit of plastic. They don’t feel like anything, but it has a very, very fine grit, so the grit becomes finer and with the finer grits you are able to polish it’s like buffing and nail once you’ve filed it.
You then buff it and then you polish it with the polisher and it becomes very shiny. A very similar process applies when polishing stone or furniture. Now, of course, you can simply just cheat and use the epoxy to achieve a glass-like finish. I absolutely love it boxy. I think there’s a fantastic resin and I’m going to show you an example of a piece for which that I applied epoxy to epoxy resin, which created a very beautiful glass. Like finish, this is actually a custom-made antlia stand made and designed by myself. I don’t really want to use one of these shields, which are typically used to hang antlers. I also think we look a little bit dated and slightly jarring. I wanted to go for something that, of course played on the traditional position of mounting antlers on a plaque, but something that was more slick, a modern and, of course, high gloss. And this, of course, isn’t back. And if I tilted and just ever so slightly, you should be able to see my lamps, so it is highly reflective and I absolutely love it. I think it’s gorgeous and to hang it in place. I actually used curtain ties the little hooks that are used to keep curtains back and drawn. These are actually curtain tiles and even made out of solid polished brass. It took me a very long time to find something that would hold them up without having to put a screw or a nail through them now, because the piece 4ch that I am going to be rubbing down has had many many coats of lacquer upon it. It is ready to be rubbed down and what I mean by rubbing down is by taking fine grit sandpaper and just rubbing out the ridges to get everything as seamless as possible, so that it’s safe is absolutely perfect. No ridges no dents nothing, and this is actually really necessary when aiming to achieve a flawless glass like polished finish, even if it isn’t a glass like finish to have something that is totally smooth dirt and smooth turn. This is a necessary process. So, for example, I’m going to take a small piece of pine. This is actually from something else that I’m making and I should be sharing at a later date very exciting, but you can feel you’ll be able to fill on any wood, there’s always slight ridges. There’s always ridges on the water and, of course, weather would have been cut. There’s always bridges would naturally has all these ridges.
It’s quite a beautiful, wonderful material would absolutely love wood, but what we want to do is fill in all of these ridges and even if you put on varnish on this now think, oh, it will create a layer only if you use epoxy, because epoxy is a Liquid, when it is first applied and of course it takes its own time to set it fills in all the ledges and grooves. But epoxy is one of these things. You have to pour onto a piece. It forms its own flat surface because gravity, of course, pulls it into alignment, but it fills in all of the ridges now. This is a marvelous thing if you have a flat surface or what ever the piece you are working on. But if you are working on a table that has long legs, it’s very difficult to pour epoxy onto the legs and for to stay of gravity is the pro and the cone when working with epoxy. So epoxy is marvelous on a flat surface, but back to our wood. I know a lot of you love the wood. So if we were to zoom in and wood and look at its ridges, it would almost appear like this. We would have all these ridges now. I have rather large in man hands. So please do not mistake me for Goliath, but I’m using my hand to explain what the bridges would look like. So if you are using a substance like polyurethane or lacquer or whatever varnish that you’re going for whether it be painted on or roller dong or spray it on, you are creating a layer around all your ridges, so you aren’t necessarily filling in the ridges. So the process of filling in the ridges you can create many many layers. That is why I recommend to rub down between each coat because you will go in and you will create your layer, but then, by rubbing down and sanding down, you are taking what has been applied on the surface back down, leaving what you’ve applied in the ridges. But taking it back to the surface, so by going over this many times, you are able to actually fill in the ridges. This, of course, is a lengthy time-consuming process. It does take a lot of time and certainly worth a piece of furniture for which that I’m using. I do not believe that it came out of the production factory having been lacquered or filled in. There are definitely ways to actually fill in wood convincingly, but because this wood has been dyed and decorated, I’m going to have to fill it in with lacquer, rather than filling it in with either wood, filler or plaster or clay. So if I were to take this piece here again and we were to fill in the ridges, whether it be mahogany or whatever kind of wood it is, you can actually use lacquer mixed with either clay powder or plendor itself to fill it in.
I would not recommend plaster. I have made the mistake of using plaster. That’s been mixed with water to fill in ridges and, of course, this went drastically wrong fact of life. Is that wood when exposed to water or comes in face with water it expands. So that is where you always find weather has been a leak or something that is wooden even wooden spoons, after quite a while do start to warp and change shape, and even the texture of them will start to set a fray away. That’s a fact of life. Wood responds to watch on it, wood, of course, as we must always remember as a biological element. So some Perth bang has died to bring us this little blank here today. You can actually fill it in with an alternative to plaster. Lacquer, of course, is a very hard marvelous component. I absolutely love, like I think it’s marvelous, but you can mix it with either clay powder or plaster powder and of course, if you are using mahogany or today I am holding a piece of pine or you are opening or whatever kind of wood you are using. You can dye the filler that you’re using or add a little bit of color or whatever to fill in the ridges so that it fills in and smooth everything out. Then you can sand it down, which will give you an immaculately smooth finish and then, of course, you can go in with your lacquers and your polish. Suddenly, when you look at oriental styles of furniture, which are renowned for their beauty and decoration and the artworks painted upon them a lot of the time, of course, it is lacquer that has been used, but to get it to be absolutely polished and smooth. They usually use clay powder or plaster powder mixed with the lacquer, rather than water, to fill in any ridges, and you can actually just go ahead and plunk it all on and then scrape it off this filling in the ridges. Of course, this is a fantastic way of dealing with imperfections or bridges in wood that is going to be painted or wood that is going to have gilt applied to it. But you do have to be more strategic if you are going to be simply vanishing that wood or lacquering it, so you would have to use a filler that matches the woods color or matches whatever decoration you’re going to use.
However, of course, if it has been painted either black or red or whatever color you went to put on it or design or decoration, that’s going to hide the actual wood itself. You don’t necessarily have to concern yourself that much about the color of you are Phillip. So when it comes to the sandpaper, it’s all about the grit that you use when polishing down when it comes to the polishing stone. However, there is a different procedure. I have here just a piece of marble. It was lying around absolutely love cream. Marble. I collect a lot of green marble things, whether it’s a pen or a vice or a tile or whatever. I love green marble. I think it’s gorgeous, but you can see here that it is not polished on one side. However, here it has been polished, polishing stone. You do tend to have to use an orbital sander. You go from my strong grit right down to the very, very, very fine grits, which almost feel like nothing and just in case any of you wondering this is what an orbital center looks like. It’s got this bit here and when you turn it on, you can see every Tate’s vendôme and you varied. Of course you would take off the sandpaper that you’re using and apply the correct grit. This has a very strong grip on it at the moment, which is actually p40. Now this would obliterate anything you wouldn’t use that polished. You would actually use that to really properly sand something, but today I’m going to be rubbing down a piece of lacquered furniture and I’m going to be using a much finer sandpaper. Now there are many different kinds of grit. What I mean by grit is simply the level of coarseness with sandpaper, so something that is per se a p40 is going to be incredibly cost. You could use it to file their own nails, whereas something that is perhaps 1,200. It’s going to be really really fine and usually the finer grits are used for wet sanding, because if you use them dry, they just the friction. Just they become a net and immediately when you use them dry, so they’re, better, wet they’re, better to be used. Wait! This is actually p120 0, so it’s 1200, and this is what I shall be using today to buff down our piece now. I actually have further grits for sandpaper a lot softer bonus and I shall be using them at a later point. But first of all I will be going in with the P 1200. After that I will go to 20 hundred, then to 30 hundred, which are very, very fine. Now I know that many of you would be thinking. Why are you wet sanding when water of course warps and distorts wood? You don’t actually use a lot of water when wet sanding and, of course, you mix the water with soap, because water evaporates very very quickly, especially when there’s friction, but the soap just provides you with a little bit of lubricant.
Now you can actually do this by maybe applied one drop of detergent to your washer and maybe keeping it in a spritz bottle and spray it on, of course, because the piece has been lacquered multiple times and we’re not going to be using that much water. No we’re not giving it a bath today, we’re simply adding water as a lubricant, so we’re able to go in with a sandpaper and polished and sand away, some of the lacquer bringing it back down to all assistant level, and it shall all be smooth. So we are back again with my marvelous table so after I had all the sanded it. I was rebuilding the lacquer up again, and this has had four calls since then. So, as you can see, it’s quite shiny, if I tilted just a little bit, you’ll be able to see the legs and every warehouse is quite shiny. Now I’m not lacking the surface here at all. I’m only going to be lacquer in the sides, this surface and the legs, so everything except the top, the top I’m going to be epoxy. So I’m going to begin on this leg. First of all, I should not be doing everything today. I am simply going to be doing a small section just to show you the process for which that I use when rubbing out and buffing daily blocka. Now I’m going to be wearing my glasses to do this. As I am incredibly long sighted, I can’t see anything close to me, but I can definitely see things at a great distance. I can actually see God the other side of the universe, but anything we are by. I am not particularly great at picking it up now. I actually use a little bit of flash to do this now. I know some people disagree with me doing so, but it’s quite soapy, so I’m able to lubricate the self as well, but also wet sand without using a considerable amount of water, which of course, what’s the word now. The P 1200 sandpaper worked the time. One reason today comes in a sheet format: it does tend to be something that is more salt for hand use rather than machine use. So what I like to do is just cut out a little rectangle doesn’t have to be meat and with our rectangle I then fold it in half just like so so I can use it like that, like I want it more specific fold it again, you can Fold it to whatever point you need it, you can fold it in half or a little bit just so you get the size you want before going in sounding dead.
Now, what I’m going to do is just spritz our surface, just two little splits and then just massage elunatan. Then we really go into doing one side. This piece will require a lot of buffing out because there are so many different services and shapes, but I’m only going to be doing this leg just to show you. I then take my P 1200 and I take it just like that and I started buffing and, as you can see, it starts to be juice as shine. It’s taking off a shine as well as excess product so that we take the surface back down to the ridges and just feeling that just like that, I can already feel it’s a lot smoother. If I do try to go in circular motions, it can also be great to soak your white sand paper in water for 24 hours so that it is not so dry and with a complement resume, you will be able to see what I’m doing much better. So I’m just buffing and buffing and buffing in circular motions and quite quickly, and you will start to create and build up a ladder, as you can see, there’s a ladder building and a great way to no wine to stop are whether or not you require a Little bit more buffing is to feel always feel as you go along light also plays an important part as you’ll be able to see ridges quite clearly where there is a shadow. There is still a slight pinch and, as you can see, it starts to reduce a shine greatly. As you can see, the surface starts to appear a lot more smooth, and even though we have taken away the immediate shine and reflection, you can actually see that the light the way it hits the leg. The light is a lot more consistent. This is a sign that we are creating a much smoother and softer surface and, of course, you just keep doing this, I’m feeling as you go along until it starts to feel really smooth and lubricate. As you go now, I’m taking a slightly dampened cloth. That’s been thoroughly rinsed out, I’m just going to go over the surface, removing all of the resins. You know, as you will be able to see, it is slightly matter, but the surface of it is a lot smoother as if we were to compare it to another leg. When you tilt it slightly in the light you can see, there’s all these little ridges So it’s very reflective, as lacquer tends to be if it is a high-gloss lacquer, but the presence of the ridges is still there, but because on this side we have began buffing, as you will be able to see.
There are several little areas that require a little bit more buffing and, of course it will require an additional coat of lacquer, probably about two coats of lacquer, and I just go over to the damp cloth just so you can have an idea what it would look Like with reflective lacquer on you can see that becomes very, very glossy and very very shiny Another useful point to note is that this sandpaper is usually referred to as wet sandpaper or, when do to say things like they are wet sanding What they mean is that you use it with some form of lubricant, so once all of the piece has been rubbed out and buffed it down to a similar finish as the one that we have created here, I will then be going in with some other regular Lacquer, this is the lacquer that I used to totally cover this piece in the first place, but for the final two coats I shall be using a spray lacquer, and this one is by high coat and is there clear lacquer I shall be going over everything with Two coats of clear lacquer, and once that has been applied, I shall then go in with a final and additional rubdown before we go in with our acid polishes, which shall be the next stage I, of course, shall be more than happy to demonstrate the process of using the spray paint, as well as rubbing down for the final time and demonstrating the acid polishing process Acid polishing is when you take a chemical and it is buffed It creates a chemical reaction, creating a very high gloss finish and it is a technique typically used when lacquering, so I’m very excited to get into that in the next film But this is how I brought out lacquer, so that more or less completes this film Regarding the process of buffing out or rubbing out for a fine refined glass, like finish, this is just one part of the process in order to achieving a glass like finish when employing the use of lacquer upon wooden furniture To conclude, I hope that you found today’s film to be either interesting, useful, helpful or beneficial once again Thank you so much for watching and, of course, take care Bye,